2013年9月24日星期二

in Beirut, where fashion life is dangerous

Last year heard while working one afternoon in his studio in the center of Beirut,Louis Vuitton wallet the designer Krikor Jabotian and 20 or so employees have a very loud bang. " It looked like a bomb," Jabotian , who grew up in the city during the civil war in Lebanon raged from 1975 to 1990 and started his own label five years ago, said. "But we continue to work It's just the way we work in Beirut. Expect the unexpected. " It was a bomb. About four blocks bomb killed the head of Lebanese intelligence and destroyed most of the road. Beirut, back to more violence. But Mr. Jabotian further make clothes easy. Beirut has traditionally been described as the most happening city in the Middle East - but in recent decades the country was better known conflict of sewing , especially today with the civil war in Syria. So what is the point of fashion in Beirut now ? And what are the effects of conflict and always " Expect the Unexpected " has the designers and their clients? "We have to work on, because it support each other in our own way ," the designer Rabih Kayrouz , who began his career in Lebanon, but moved to Paris in 2008, said. Louis Vuitton accessories "Sure, sometimes fashion is not a priority , for example , in a time of crisis, I would not put something like a big Fashion Week . - It 's just crazy ," said Mr. Kayrouz who canceled a show in 2005 , when a former Prime Minister of Lebanon, Rafik Hariri , was assassinated. " But I will not close the deal either . , You have this attitude of survival. " Zuhair Murad , another Lebanese designer whose glamorous gowns were worn by the celebrities such as Jennifer Lopez , Kristen Stewart and Jessica Alba, agreed. "The sale of our products does not mean that we are careless ," he said. "We offer our customers, our employees , their families and their children like everyone else. , If anything, has proved that fashion Lebanon has more to offer than war and violence. " Much of the local fashion industry in Lebanon focused on private commissions . After studying at one of the many programs available - the most famous school is a branch of the French ESMOD School - Career designers often begin with the tailor for wealthy clients from the Gulf Arabic, then expand into ready- to-wear , when they are successful. The likes of Mr Murad , Mr. Kayrouz , Elie Saab , Georges Chakra and Reem Acra, some of which now produce ready - when this approach has been followed by many big names in the fashion of Lebanon to take elsewhere, but their use of high-paying private clients at home . This work is lucrative for beginners. " A couture dress that costs about $ 3,000 to $ 10,000 could sell for about - the potential gains from seam very tempting ," said a recent article in the local English-language newspaper , The Daily Star . It is difficult to determine exactly how the local fashion industry is a value , but proposed a 2007 study on creative industries in Lebanon from the School of Business at the American University of Beirut prepared, it would be $ 40 million more .Louis Vuitton atheia The researchers also estimated that there are at least 40 companies in the 2007 mode , the latest statistics , some employees less than 70 full-time and 200 part-time employees . The industry of the country not under the national agenda very far place. Fashion shows are usually organized by VIP event labels, and although there have been attempts on a fashion week in Beirut lay in the past , they were not taken very seriously. And unlike other countries, there is little institutional support for young designers . "Of course , the Lebanese government has other priorities," Kayrouz that attempts by the introduction of a foundation based in Beirut, help to support new designer said . So to stay in business largely dominated by the designers themselves . Since the School of Business researchers wrote in a period of instability , the designers have managed to survive because many customers were out of the country , they moved shops and workshops in safer places , and made ??them things like 2006 Israeli blockade of the country to get around. "Even during the Civil War , we have adapted - . Designers used to fly to the Gulf to continue to do business and it happened again," Jabotian who recently made long trips to client countries said. "Several years ago , Beirut was heaven . Many tourists from the Gulf, and they would do all their shopping here . But now the political situation affects business . " The history of the war and the potential of the current conflict in Lebanon is not only practical, they affect the state of mind of the customer and the designer. The art of the city and the party scene already has a reputation for hedonism , take a stance - the - day , which includes the establishment of rules . " Beirut is very spontaneous ," Mr. Jabotian said , adding that the nervous energy has moved , that makes him want to do better. But always " expect the unexpected " can also lead to a siege mentality. "When I arrived in Paris, I remember thinking , I can not believe the way we used to work in Lebanon ," said Kayrouz . " In Paris , my mindset is much calmer I am always inspired by the same things - . , It is just that I am on the collection itself instead of stressing about whether there will be current for today , or whether I use focus to do it. " Any direct juxtaposition of fashion and conflict is still controversial. Historically, many collections were allusions to uniforms, the war had an impact on what people wear . But in situations where fashion and conflicts come too close "to accusations of insensitivity are almost inevitable ," said Jane Tynan , a specialist in cultural history at the Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London . Because fashion is usually considered seriously as superficial and shallow as the war , "one catches the spirit very quickly and see some interesting reflections of who we are and how we live ," said Dr. Tynan . "But that's part of the problem . There is a lack of depth . "I 'm not saying there's anything wrong with that - but it can be used as a flippant answer to be seen ," she said, citing a famous 2007 Vogue Italia shoot by Steven Meisel with models and soldiers Many critics said that his war glorified in Iraq. These criticisms seem taken seriously depend on the proximity of the front line you're on. " Meisel pictures of new areas where there is less people in the military ," said Dr. Tynan . "People who know what war means are realistic. For those in the area of war, or in a place where there is a history of conflict , they reject that . " Mr. Kayrouz agreed . "We would never do that ," he said, referring to the same 2007 photographs. " There is a lack of respect for those who have suffered. " Murad said the war was not a source of inspiration for him : "We do not depend on conflict and suffering come to shine. " On this day , in Beirut, the sun was shining on the large terrace of the workshop Mr. Jabotian . And he said that he continues to look on the bright side. Louis Vuitton cluth "By nature , the Lebanese tend to be proactive . We adapt to any circumstance ," Mr. Jabotian said firmly. "Time will not stop me to be creative . This is the way I wanted. "

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