2013年7月1日星期一
Paris Spring / Summer 2014 fashion loves a man in uniform, but it is a style that now comes in many forms
Menswear is about uniforms. This sounds too simple an explanation, but the last day of the Spring / Summer 2014 men's fashion shows in Paris equip man in a variety of forms, each in one way or another, a uniform.
This does not, however, drag the Village People. Student shorts and socks pulled up, a military coat buttoned high, suitable for classic style: they are all uniform. And there will always be people willing to touch it, as those who want to come will be gone.
Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver his spring collection for Lanvin seemed to put on uniform, boiler suits, nylon and plastic buckles clothing blue-collar work, across town boys jersey and shorts suitable for the modern athlete blocked. Alternatively, the student - he rose above the thigh shorts, paired with mid calf socks special care as well bred Parisian student.
What did you make you play with proportions - shaved or smoothed, legs stretched out in hyper-short or full shorts, pleated pants, deceived lowered by the fork and buttoned jackets cropped closely as eye or elongated torso, broad shoulders and big small heads handle adding heft.
Interestingly, there was no consistent for all uniformity in the figure: full and smooth in contrast to the thin and short. When the collection was missing a crucial message, it also lacked the dull homogeny teaching many individual notes shows of the season. What could be more luxurious than a choice?
The Thom Browne look is all about consistency: he showed hordes of office drones in identical gray suit and his shrunken suit is echoed in and out of season. This time he showed the Ecole Militaire.
You do not need to catch his drift a translator. Cue PVC coated, soldier nutcracker birds, frogs and pinafores Prussian inappropriate beefy biceps next to lipstick and high heels. What is uniform, after all, but institutional drag? If WOMEN hardships Browne target for the kind of debauched decadence Helmut Berger as Martin Beck in Food From The Damned, honestly endless Mr. Otto Flick in 'Allo' Allo - not through the cap and breeches jacquard helped. It was fun but less consistency in terms of fashion.
Despite appearances on the contrary, Hedi Slimane reborn Saint Laurent ensures a uniform: the unemployed youth and disheveled. His first two collections have already achieved cult status, the waifish armies bowl cut, leather-Laurent guys roaming Paris, hungry. It feels like a reference to the spring exhibition Slimane - 1983 David Bowie vampire flick hunger.
In fact, it was his California counterpart, Lost Boys - transplanted as Slimane Saint Laurent studio in Los Angeles, the undead Santa Cruz seems more appropriate. His obvious reference was a row of teeth threatens beads on a satin jacket.
Otherwise, these boys wore clothes that grab half a dozen subcultures, a past, but this began with Winklepickers, pants pulled high and tight with supernatural slender limbs. It is doubtful that these clothes really have eternal life. But the body Slimane may have found their new ship.
订阅:
博文评论 (Atom)
没有评论:
发表评论