New York Fashion Week Day 8: bold looks the volume

  Designer preview spring collection at New York Fashion Week not have a voice, but they all spoke very loudly.

"Bold" was the word buzzing around the tents at Lincoln Center, ended after eight days of previews on Thursday. Say between saturated colors, sexy cuts, scratches and loss account printouts or mixed-up, had to wear something.

"This season feels like an explanation," said Brandon Holley, editor in chief of Lucky magazine. "It's as if everyone is tired of shopping your closet and they are ready to make a further statement."

Retailers look forward to seeing the new colors and bright, Ken Downing, fashion director for Neiman Marcus, said.

"There were some things have to be," said Downing, a vest, a skirt, which examined either Swingy and short, or cut and below the knee, and leather color - can be laser cut? - That the products that will be on the top of the list for buyers.

Nearly 200 designers a preview of their spring collection in New York, before the crowd. Heads to London Fashion, Milan and Paris In recent seasons, it was as if everyone agreed on a message in advance. After the recession began, an edgy chick muse was evident. A few seasons later, everything was bohemian.

This time, it was certainly clear trends - including skirt suits, colors, heavy coats below the knee, leather, cutouts, corsets and belts, and black and white stripes. But there were many muses instead of It Girl.

There was evidence from India and other exotic places. And impressions were sharper than what is usually offered in the spring - instead of "pretty" flowers, there were reports, digital X-ray skull models. "If this is a floral, this is the floral photographic realism that seems very different," said Holley.

Also uptown clips Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta had an edge with leather and latex, by its subsidiary.

Is that the designers dictate the style and tend to offer options continues. It is the breath of spring air.

Ralph Lauren

Statement, Ralph Lauren: Be strong. Be bold. Go on this adventure.

The first look at the airstrip at Ralph Lauren with a turquoise suede poet, with cascading ruffles wore on the front, and the model of a Basque beret and a bag of motorcycle occupied. From there it was a bright red dress by hand crochet tank and a little later had a look tomato red suede jacket with a rustic brown leather details.

Coverage colored serape style was. Buzz editors and stylists before leaving the city, where space show Olivia Wilde and Jessica Alba sat in the front row Lauren offered the same idea - at the same green, brown and yellow - round shoulder serape film, probably just in cupboards of most customers.

There were bolero jackets and trousers jodhpur improvement, a matador in a Spanish style music evokes, with flat-top hats and colorful scarves beads around the neck of some models. But if you take every piece of yourself, it was not a costume.

Calvin Klein

Francisco Costa, creative director for Calvin Klein Women's happened the last word left Thursday at New York Fashion Week as one of the last great designers to preview spring collection, but it left an impression on purpose things.

This is what left the audience wanting more. Edges were frayed, contrasting lining were revealed, and necklines were naked and exposed while. The impression that there is more than they should Gold hardware peered over the pure black panel dress that closed the show.

Costa has a knack for "seductive lines," he said in his notes. It's certainly caught the eye of the bust and bodice, offers a range of conical bustier, which are exactly what they sound like. Saying they were futuristic, but also a little hard in a corset made of silk crepe jacket knit, they were sexy and trendy.

Calvin Klein pursued the many layers of fabrics and textures that have dominated tracks: abstract a lace dress is connected to a painted satin bustier and skirt mesh, for example. But the fact that almost all black outfits presented here may not be a part of this trend are called -. It's a way of life for this house design

Marchesa

It was not like Grand Central in New York Fashion Week Marchesa Show Wednesday - the Kim Kardashian, Kanye West, Tyra Banks and all the photographers who went to hang out. It was Grand Central.

The preview of the spring collection was staged in the historic railway terminal, but it was hardly the rush hour on the track. All eyes turned by designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig were embellished in general and complex, and the time to study the details. Models can not go as fast in clothes that will ring with beads or thin coats.

Thanks to the Indian inspiration - through the experience of a 1960 Beatles with the Maharishi - There were colors, colorful and easy to wear silhouettes that Marchesa collections in recent years.

"Last season was baroque and dark, and before the season was very ornate," Chapman said in an interview before the show. "It's a different mindset this season."

The fashion insiders really looking d'Marquise is an index of what soon to be on the red carpet in Hollywood. Then it is safe to say that the stars can dress up collar with tassel fringe or metallic beads bear covered - or both - and perhaps a peacock blue one shoulder tulle dress worn by-a fully embroidered gold leaf body illusion that makes it appear by brilliant body art.

Proenza Schouler

Real people - Parade in-the-pressure pool at night Proenza Schouler Wednesday was probably a few fashion insiders - surprise - do not expect much for the novelty of these overviews.

Collection of Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough started moving some of the trends for spring, including leather, patchwork, textures and perforated mesh. The leather was a little lighter, a little patchwork random textures and a bit of an exaggeration, but still, they fell in line.

The duo skirt suits galore offered, but they were not covered on the plate and measures, collarless jackets and were in snakeskin and skirts were hanging low on the hips.

But satin digital print with neon nail heads on the tops and eyelets on the bottom that were decorated served as the last can only do Proenza Schouler, and showed why they. As one of New York Trend indicators for the future of fashion The styles were a little out there, but that's where so many others have.

Reed Krakoff

Reed Krakoff designs were always luxurious and sporty. For spring, he decided to go sexy, too.

Krakoff was heavy on layers pic tank cover mainly leather tops, dresses. The feet were simple slippers Krakoff, worn by many models and also by the actress Julianne Moore, made mesh (models wore "peep-toe" versions, while Mooore fingers were closed and treated black.)

There was "down shirt" coats, polo shirts, boxer shorts, track jackets and sweatshirts (all this was appropriate for the gym, mind you - it was very upscale sportswear.)

And leather, where Krakoff is known, provided a structural counterpoint to all film-iness: A pure-peak memory was with a leather skirt, a memory training jacket jersey skirt stuck with a rubber crocodile smooth paired. A slip dress jersey memory was accompanied by a black python tote.

J. Mendel

You do not need frills, if you have fur, and J. Mendel was always fur. This survey was the spring, so no need large coats comfortable, but hot pants mink? It will work.

Designer Gilles Mendel, celebrates 10 years of his house matched the signature green cypresses, near short crops - provide a velvety texture - had a mink jacket leather panels and a chiffon skirt.

Mendel was sticking to its finest detail and ultra-luxe materials like leather and lace guipere butter, but the overall look is not as fluffy as it did in the past few seasons.

He cited Kawachi photos of the garden in Japan and the wisteria grows as a starting point. A number of dresses in chiffon pintucked lifted, some with keys and other goddess with wrinkles, the fairy garden.

Anna Sui

New York Fashion Week saw a lot of mix and match fabrics, colors and textures. For all possible combinations, and sometimes crazy chic for the season next spring Anna Sui tower was conflict for centuries.

She finished 19th on the time after the fall of Napoleon III in the late Century was intrigued after reading a historical document, this summer, she studied in the 1950s, during the French decorator Madeleine Castaing. Also, she found herself out of the neo-classical painters and how they developed inspired the Impressionists.

At least they are all French.

As is the case with Sui, it was also a little punk edge. "Somehow it all comes together, even if you did not think so," Sui said with a laugh in an interview before the show.

She was right: a baby doll leopard cardigan knitted tapes, a motorcycle jacket and a neoprene top can in delicate voile share in fact the track. "It's to win the opposite ends," she said.

Jeremy Scott

If you think your wardrobe for next spring is over, think again. Who does not need a bunch of shiny metal arms hung a nice black tank top?

Yep, the machine guns. Jeremy Scott, the infamous bad boy way happy, not disappointed his fans Wednesday. And they were a lively group: The show includes packaged Paris Hilton, Tyra Banks, Adam Lambert and Olympic swimmer Ryan Lochte.

To explain imaging rifle, you should know that the show is loosely based on the Arab Spring. But as always with Scott, it was a mixture.

"I kept hearing about the Arab Spring in the news," he said backstage, "I wanted to use -. The desert, but also the colors that I wanted to mix elements Harlem again and there was an element of Rihanna, I dressed. .. "

There were a lot of black and a lot of gold, but a blue sky appeared in the form of leather snakeskin. Also prints that looked like a model of flame combustion. Other highlights: A swimsuit / body with a giant face decorate the entire surface and a black robe hook, leaving nothing to the imagination.

But it was Scott imagination, of course, what the show. It's not for everyone, but fans seemed very happy.