2012年9月18日星期二
Innovation at the Fashion Week 2012 conducted: Sustainability and Independence
Fashion Week 2012 in New York last week showed that the last muse sustainability is, and that this orientation value gives birth to a higher propensity for independence as well.
Some of us thought it was decided that "sustainable" triple bottom line is - people, planet and profit. But because of the "profit" part is tricky when you rotate the "world" part, explore some designers (and other companies), such as "sustainable" be and still survive.
Standards and indexes are designed to designers and carbon footprint measurement mode to help consumers as well as the 1.0 Higg Index, recently published by the Apparel Coalition and its key member of the Sustainable Development League for internal use (Board of Directors, including Walmart Nike, REI, and Patagonia). Coco Perez reports that were H & M, Adidas, Gap, Nike and JCPenney all classified by the index of the Higgs. There is also the Global Organic Textile Standard "(GOTS) was developed" to globally recognized requirements that ensure organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, manufacturing environmentally and socially responsible defining labeling, "according to its website.
The Independent Streak
Independent designers to interpret with small flowering, self-funded shoe-string operations "sustainability" according to their priorities and capacities. It's challenging, creative non-toxic dyes, fabrics / to find organic and natural materials, reduce transportation costs paid workers achieve a respectable wage and still make a profit respectable, especially without deep pockets.
"Sustainable development focuses on the textiles in a way that respects the environment by using less chemicals, disposal of chemicals are used, and try to keep as much as possible the original integrity of the tissue as possible," wrote an independent designer, Priti Bali to me She continues. "My label is sustainable because I just textiles countries to defend these Standards (GOTS) and apply their manufacturing processes."
Priti Bali designs and manufactures what it "modular" clothing called - just "basic" pieces like a pencil skirt or a vest that can be "converted" into office nightclub sitting under a zipper or snap buttons to add or remove length lace sleeves. She calls it "less is more." Part Bali price range of $ 30 to $ 250 I saw a glimpse of their Nolcha Fashion Week to raise in which these independent fashion designers visibility considerably Fashion Week.
Another series was independent Nolcha Glocal Collection, which sells colorful scarves and beaded jewelry. Glocal CEO and President Yenifer Vicky Lam Cohen told me that scarves made from organic cotton and natural, biodegradable dyes that do not pollute the water are made, and are woven by hand and beads hand by women in rural villages in Guatemala. Lam also said that Glocal is "sustainable" to help these indigenous peoples in his native Guatemala - mostly women - to learn business skills and to improve their living standards. Glocal sell necklaces, bracelets and scarves for between $ 35 and $ 400, only to "pop-up" (business innovation phone shop), online on their website or social events.
With a mission mode
After all the years of horrific reports on the major manufacturers with "sweat shops" and other countries where farm workers are desperately underpaid and poorly maintained, it is admirable that the industry is so focused care of people who are its potential benefits .
This is especially admirable for independent developers who have fewer resources and lower margins, and therefore can survive to do the right thing by these workers. This is the innovation of the industry by infusing with a mission - to help small businesses and rural communities with economic development, or the "people" part of the triple bottom line.
Since gray cloth from outside the United States, it is the factor in the equation transportation carbon footprint. Bali produces in the region of New York (Brooklyn, Queens and Manhattan soon), and transportation costs are reduced by the proximity of the Glocal Guatemala, compared to India or China.
It does not sell?
Who buys these independent "sustainable" brand? The mid-20 working women in the early 40's, "with an eclectic style" who like to travel. Interestingly, Priti said: "The largest ethnic group, to buy my parts were Asian and Hispanic Black women come second.".
Only the sale for a year and Priti Glocal new lines, but they do a respectable demonstration date and shows that the independent mode with values / mission is focused on sustainability is an innovation whose time has come.
Make sure a showcase of leading Fashion Week in New York City alone is a good sign.
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